An informal photo dump and some thoughts on French building elements, establishments, food and people.
o4., l’Extraction de Parfum
Our trip to the Fragonard Musée du Parfum, located in the 9th arrondissement of Paris, was both glamorous and informative. Before it became a staple in the fashion industry, perfume held a position at the crossroads of the religious, therapeutic, cosmetic and culinary worlds.
Our multilingual and well-versed tour guide shared with us some of the techniques used to collect scents as well as a behind-the-scenes into the curation process. Collection is an art: Distillation, for example, is a technique in which raw materials are heated and the fragrant compounds are re-collected through condensation. The condensate from distillation, which contain both water and the aromatics, settles in a still. Copper stills, like the one depicted in the photo above, were commonly used as the metal causes a reaction that removes undesirable notes and makes the final product smoother.
Once each scent is collected, they are carefully combined to create a composition. This portion of the process is extremely painstaking (and the most interesting to learn about), as the perfumer must consider the three levels of the olfactory pyramid as well as lifespan of the scent.
Perfumery is a symphony, it has a beginning, middle and an end.
— Isabelle Ramsey-Brackstone, Perfumer
The olfactory pyramid forms the structure and architecture of a perfume. The levels are linked to the strength of the different notes within the scent, all of which must be in harmony with one another in order to create a pleasing product.
- The top note is the lightest and most fleeting as it is the one that is smelled immediately after the perfume is sprayed. It’s a fresh and volatile note, often an essence such as: citrus fruits, lavender, herbs, light fruits or notes such as green tea or cucumber.
- Duration on the skin: about 15 to 30 minutes.
- The heart note gives the perfume its “character” and style. The most common usually are: white flowers, rosy notes, powdery flowers, or spices. This note usually appears a few minutes after spraying, but becomes the dominant note after 20 to 30 minutes, when the top note has evaporated.
- Duration on the skin: about 4 to 6 hours.
- The base note is the most intense and long-lasting, acting as the essence of the perfume’s signature. After an application in the morning, hints of it can still be smelled in the evening and even on clothing several days after wearing it. The base notes are powerful, containing: woody essences like cedar, sandalwood, oak moss, animal notes such as amber, musk, leather as well as exotic notes vanilla.
- Duration on the skin: up to 24 hours.
A student, during the presentation, asked whether or not perfumers mimicked existing smells. Our guide responded that the familiarity we experience when passing by someone wearing a familiar scent is purposefully crafted. We, as humans, create olefactory memories (or attach certain memories or people to certain smells). An expert perfumer will tastefully include a commonplace scent to not only trigger memory but increase the likelihood of attraction to the scent… or wearer.
Nothing brings to life again a forgotten memory like fragrance.
— Christopher Poindexter